My pals needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their home is at the low point on the plot and for years the septic system has not worked well. They needed to fix it so they can have toilets that actually flush in the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has highlighted the problem so that they made the decision to spend the sizable amount of money to fix the issue.
The program includes the normal septic tank then the septic effluent pump tank and then a distribution tank located in the top from the hill. The brand new septic tank had to be placed in order to not disturb the old tank so that the existing system could be used during construction. The pump tank had to be located slightly beneath the septic tank in order that gravity would flow the waste water with it. The septic tank effluent pump sits within the pump tank and pumps water to the distribution tank high on the hill. From that point, this type of water will drain in to the field lines by gravity.
My job was to connect the sump pump and alarm for the electrical supply. The alarm is necessary by the local sewer codes to produce a visual and audible alarm in case the water level within the pump tank exceed a certain level. This provides an earlier warning that there is something wrong using the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm must have its very own separate circuit. If the alarm was powered by the supply to the pump as well as the breaker tripped to the pump, there will be no alarm. I installed the alarm inside the house so it can simply be seen and heard as suggested through the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires directly to the alarm panel and ran them all inside conduit so that it will be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for that AC addition. This box had a couple of extra spaces within it that created a perfect place to pull power for your new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for the sump pump service as well as a 15 AMP standard breaker for your alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers for this particular older Square D box.
By far the most labor intensive portion of the job was running the underground wires from the box in front of the home to the septic field behind the house. A lot of the trench needed to be dug by hand because of close proximity in the AC compressor, flower beds as well as a sidewalk. A lot of the trench was dug by the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for the pump as well as a 14 gage wire for the alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit had not been needed. I did run conduit for additional protection from the box down to the foot of the 24 inch qiggkp trench at every end of the wire. I used the identical 14 gage direct burial wire to increase the float wiring from your alarm unit to the field.
On the pump tank, I installed a weather-resistant single 20 AMP outlet over a 4×4 post. This is where the Myers Sewer pump is connected. The plug provides the required local disconnect considering that the breaker is not within sight from the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
Some conduit was cut to match to the neck from the tank in order that the cord towards the septic pump as well as the alarm float wiring could be protected. The conduit ends slightly underneath the outlet for the septic pump.
Our local inspector was pleased with the details and water proofing. I used a compression fitting at the bottom of every conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to avoid critters from finding their way into the junction boxes.
I tied a length of rope towards the sump pump, fastened the alarm float for the outlet pipe and thoroughly lowered the sewer pump in place. I secured the free end in the rope to among the lifting lugs in the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to obtain their system operational. I am certain they will likely enjoy having the ability to take baths and flush the toilet even if it rains.